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The body is next. The idea is to create a body out of Styrofoam sheets. I'm using 1 inch thick sheets for most of it.
I'll use multiple sheets stacked in areas where the body needs to be rounded. Once I have it shaped right, I'll cover
it with fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin inside and out. This type of construction is extremely lightweight and
relatively strong.
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I started the body by tracing the wheel, the frame, and the battery positions on a sheet of graph paper. Then I sketched a body form over the major components, allowing for front wheel travel. Then I transferred the form to a full size sheet of 1" thick Styrofoam sheet. I cut out the form, allowing it to go to floor level to form a straight reference plane. Next I cut out 3 more of the same shape, 2 for the outside panels and 2 to form the inside of the wheel wells. Then I cut a large sheet of foam to form the top surface, cutting slits about 3/4 of the way through to enable it to bend around the curve. The photo below shows the assembly. |
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This is the nose assembly on the floor. It fits over the nose of the car, ending at the base of the windshield. It will tilt up from a hinge at the tip of the nose. The corners will get cut to a rounded profile to match the headlight assemblies. |
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This is the nose tilted up on end showing the structure underneath. I've blocked in the outside corners, so that I can cut and round them off to match the profile of the headlights. When I have the basic shape and structure done, I'll cut out the outside of the wheel wells. |
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This is the completed foam nose mounted on the car. |
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I may round the edges a bit to give it a softer look |
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Approximate weight at this stage is 30lbs. |
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I used two steel bars, 1" x 1/8" as stiffeners and to support the hinge point. Steel plates of .060" thickness spread the load to the foam. Gorilla Glue® (a moisture-cured polyurethane adhesive) holds them to the foam. |
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This is a shot with the hood hinged up. I'm planning on using a pair of gas struts to support it when opened, although I may just use a pair of cables or locking stays. |
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This is the start of covering the nose. The fiberglass cloth lays in very nicely. The next step is to "paint" it with epoxy resin. I haven't decided how many layers I'll need. |
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Close-up of the cloth in a difficult area on the nose. The cloth really conforms well in the corners. |
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This is the rough form of the rear end. This section will attach to the frame, but will be removable with a few bolts if I ever have to work on the rear suspension. |
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Inside view of the rear suspension |
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The rear end covered with a first layer of narrow "planks" 1/2" thick |
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The last layer will be a 3/8" layer of foam, but bigger sheets. It bends pretty well. I used some patio blocks as weights to hold it down while the glue dries. I'm using Gorilla Glue® for all the foam now. If you spray the surface with water before you press them together, it foams up nicely as it dries, filling in any spaces. It also has the right consistency to sand well with the foam. |
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Front view of the car with the side panels installed |
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You can see the perspective of the profile in this picture. |
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Rear view of the foam tail assembly. |
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The tail assembly slides onto the frame rails and attaches with 3 metal tabs. |
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Rear view of the car with the side panels installed |
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The rear window will get hinged off the roll bar, hatchback style. |
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The front dash is installed here. The two round jacks to the right of the stereo are 12V accessory jacks. |
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The inside round grills are for the defrosters. The outer grills are 6x9 speakers for the stereo. |
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The rear side panels hook onto the frame rails. |
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The charging jack is a Hubbel twist lock. I'm using a spare Corvette fuel filler door to cover it. |
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The side vents are functional. Cooling air will be ducted in to cool the motor and controller. |
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Side view of the car |
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The passenger side door fitted to the chassis, with window openings marked. |
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The windshield is on and the first door is finished. |
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The side view mirror was tricky to get in just the right position, it needed a wedge under it to get it level. Visibility with it is very good from the driver's position. |
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The strut is still adjusted a little high, the door is opening a bit too far |
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